Charming, rosy Lisbon, at once relaxed and magical, whose unusual position on a hill overlooking the wide mouth of the Tagus River lends it an air of unreality. Medieval Saõ Jorge Castle, perched on a hilltop overlooking the fado-infused Alfama nieghborhood, faces chic young Bairro Alto atop the opposite hill, with the city centre spread out between them: exclusive boutiques in Chiado, the tourist centre of Baixa. Take a daytrip to the nearby Atlantic coast to enjoy the lovely beaches and youthful feel of Cascais, or discover Sintra, Lord Byron’s “glorious Eden,” holidaying-place of Moorish and Christian kings, where a fairytale sorbet-coloured palace dominates a rich green landscape of gardens and villas. From the ultramodern architecture and active music scene of hilly Porto to Evora’s unbelievably rich architectural heritage, Portugal offers an endless variety of destinations. One of the perennial favourites, however, remains Madeira, that colourful island where mountains and sea meet with rich tropical greenery and sharply plunging coastline. Enjoy a meal of the freshest seafood washed down with Portugal’s famous vinho verde and you’ll understand the subtle charm of this underrated country.